Travel: Unwinding with a cascade of hot stones in Bhutan
The ancient Bhutanese ritual of hot stone baths, known to promote rest, is being offered in luxury hotels as well as rustic homestays
The wooden bath dominates the well-appointed room that looks over tall blue pine trees and colourful prayer flags fluttering in the wind. Glowing river stones, slow-heated over a fire, drop down a slanted chute, warming the water and gently disseminating minerals. Leaves crowd the surface of the steaming water, inviting me to slip into the tub and relax. The stage is set for a Himalayan Hot Stone Bath, a signature therapeutic treatment that’s been part of Bhutanese life for centuries.
But why a bath tub made of wood? I turn to the spa attendant at Amankora Paro, a luxury resort shrouded by a pine forest so verdant that it scents the crisp Himalayan air. Won’t it be prone to mildew, cracks and leaks, I ask.
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“A hard wood tub has a rustic, natural beauty and is a wonderful insulator. Wood has been used to craft bath tubs in Bhutan for centuries, and we find that they elevate a simple bath to a spiritual experience," says Tsering Peldon, the spa supervisor. An attendant sets down a glass bottle with apple juice and a stemmed glass, and points to a small ornate bell cast with Tibetan script next to twinkling candles. “Ring it when you’re done," she says.
SCIENCE IN THE SPA
I slip into the heated natural river water, keen to enjoy the treatment that’s known to release tension, boost relaxation, and cleanse the skin. The minerals released by the stones and khempa leaves (Artemisia absinthium) have created menchu, the medicinal water said to have a meditative and calming effect.
Bhutan, also known as Menjung or the “land of medicinal herbs", has a rich history of traditional medicine and pharmacopoeia that dates to 7th century Tibet, and borrows heavily from India’s Ayurvedic practices. Hot stone baths are an intrinsic part of Bhutanese culture. Centuries ago, people would indulge in a soak after completing backbreaking farm work before the onset of winter. “Sitting in the hot, healing bath helped relax the body, deal with skin ailments and cure backaches and joint pains acquired during long months of farmwork," Peldon says. She adds that hot stone baths have for decades been used to treat a variety of health ailments, including arthritis, joint pains and body aches, hypertension and skin diseases. What was once a family ritual is now used to promote rest and relaxation across Bhutan, in rustic homestays and uber-luxe five-star hotels.
Researchers believe that medical hydrology originated “thousands of years ago in Asia, where Indians, Japanese, and Chinese first used water extract of tea and natural hot springs to purify their body and soul". A research paper, “Water-Based Therapies of Bhutan", published in 2020 by James Cook University and funded by World Health Organisation, states that the Bhutanese have for centuries used medical water therapies “to treat various ailments, including gastritis, neurological disorders, arthritis, dermatological diseases, and rheumatological and musculoskeletal disorders".
I sip on the apple juice, looking at the trees swaying in the wind. Khempa or wormwood leaves are the source of absinthe, an anise-flavoured spirit, and that perhaps is calming me. I ring the bell as the water cools and the attendant drops a few more heated stones via the chute. I sit back and close my eyes as the temperature of the water rises.
Numerous studies have shown the benefits of a hot soak. It increases core body temperature and improves blood flow, which can reduce blood pressure, control blood sugar and lessen inflammation. In Japan, where tub bathing is ingrained in the culture, a 2022 study in Journal of Physiological Anthropology revealed that Japanese-style bathing—soaking in hot water in the evenings or nights—enhances recovery from fatigue and improves sleep quality.
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Dr Hayasaka Shin’ya, a professor at Tokyo City University, worked with Chiba University on a project to track the health benefits of hot water baths and believes regular bathing “might be one of the reasons for Japan’s high levels of health and longevity".
By now, I am beginning to feel a sense of lassitude. The hot water has banished the niggling aches and pains that tend to accompany a walking holiday. My arteries have relaxed and expanded, boosting blood circulation. That may be responsible for the restorative and relaxed feeling; fatigue seems to be floating away, leaving me rested and reinvigorated.
Perhaps the benefits of buoyancy, that weightless feeling we get when floating on water or after a great massage, are also at play. Buoyancy makes the body “relaxed and oxygen-charged so all movement seems easy and fluid", according to Shin’ya.
WHAT THE STARS SAY
As the sun begins to slip down the horizon and the wind picks up pace, I am bundled out in a blanket. I must now choose between a body polish and wrap ritual or a hot stone massage, which uses a combination of warm stones and massage to further relax muscles. I eschew both in favour of Ku Nye, a traditional Tibetan massage technique that loosens stiff joints, improves digestion, stimulates blood flow and promotes sleep.
That night, after returning to my room, where a crackling fire and a hot water bottle in the bed create a comfy atmosphere, I sleep like the proverbial log.
Over breakfast, my guide, Tshewang Phunstso, tells me that hot stone baths remain popular across Bhutan, with people often consulting astrologers for the right day to enjoy one. “The Bhutanese people believe that any treatment done on an auspicious day is more curative and better for the body. That’s why a few people still consult astrologers to pinpoint days when baths can offer the maximum beneficial effects," he says. I didn’t do that, but still feel calm and relaxed.
I return to the hotel that evening, my last in the remote Himalayan kingdom, and enjoy the peach wine in peace. Bhutan really is the perfect place to recharge mentally and spiritually. Physically too, if you throw a hot stone bath into the mix.
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