Stories in stone: Champaner, Gujarat’s 'forgotten city'

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Chirag Munjani, who has been organising heritage walks in and around Vadodara for the last 12 years, says Khichi Chauhan Rajputs conquered the area and built a settlement on top of Pavagadh Hill, adding fortification along the plateau in the 13th century. “In 1484, Mahmud Begada, the most prominent sultan of the Gujarat Sultanate, conquered the region after a 20-month siege and made Champaner his new capital. And that was the start of the small town’s historic heyday," he says.

By the 15th and 16th centuries, Champaner became a critical post along the trade route linking the state with Malwa in western India. Medieval Champaner grew at the base of the Pavagadh Hill, which remains a Hindu pilgrimage site to this day.

Sandhya Gajjar, who was part of the Baroda Heritage Trust team that worked for years to get the Unesco status, says she finds the dual location—the hill and the plain—fascinating. “Champaner is separated from Pavagadh by just a strip of road. Most of the 114 heritage monuments listed by Heritage Trust are spread over 6 sq. km and are amazing examples of Indo-Saracenic architecture," she says.

Champaner’s heart is the Citadel, where the mosques—no longer used for worship—stand out. The massive Jami Masjid has a carved entrance porch leading into a stunning courtyard surrounded by a pillared corridor. Dating back to 1513, the mosque was constructed over 25 years. The prayer hall has two tall central minarets, multiple domes, finely latticed windows, and seven mihrabs (prayer niches). “One of the most notable monuments built by Begada, the mosque blends Mughal, Hindu, and Jain motifs. Arches and domes co-exist with motifs such as the sun, lotus, pots, vines and lotus," Munjani says.

A long walk around the site reveals the rich architectural heritage of this medieval capital. The imposing Sahar ki Masjid, with an arched doorway, a large dome, and five mihrabs was for the exclusive use of the sultans. Lila Gumbaj ki Masjid stands on a high plinth and showcases an arched entrance and three domes while the Nagina Masjid is built with pure white stone. The Kevda Masjid, like the other mosques, has domes, minarets and carvings. The helical stepwell near the city gate is devoid of the ornate carvings seen in other stepwells in Gujarat. A spiral staircase takes me right to the water hole. When I clamber back up, I look back to see that it appears like a whirlpool carved in stone.

Champaner’s glory began to wane when it was captured by Mughal emperor Humayun in 1535, and Ahmedabad became the capital of Gujarat. Limited funding means that of the 114 monuments listed by Baroda Heritage Trust, only 39 are maintained by the Archaeological Survey of India.

Gajjar rues the fact that we take our heritage lightly is because “we are so rich". “We don’t look at the income generation possibilities or put into place strict strictures," she says, adding that the fact that it’s not a single monument but numerous structures spread over a large area, makes conservation tougher.

How can the rich past be preserved in the present? Birwa Qureshi seems to have found an answer with Crraft of Art, an initiative that aims to reintroduce monuments to people. Last year, the CEPT-trained designer, who has organised 35 monument-focused performance festivals over the last 15 years, organised the Champaner Festival, to facilitate rediscovery of age-old monuments. “Champaner was on my mind for almost a decade but seemed daunting as it’s not a solitary monument; it’s an entire site," she says. Keen to present the historical site in a way it has not been seen before, she worked to create a “focal point" with a music festival. The day-long festival spotlighted 150 artists in simultaneous performances at six monuments, including Ek Minar ni Masjid, Sakar Khan Dargah and the Citadel. “The finale was at Jami Masjid and we also ran an exhibition showcasing archaeologist Sir John Hubert Marshall’s work," she says.

On the way up to Pavagadh, there’s another stunning monument in the middle of nowhere. Saat Kamaan, which translates into seven arches, is an architectural wonder that’s a favourite for photo-ops. Made of sandstone blocks, the arched passageway may once have been part of a larger fort structure and was most likely used as a strategic lookout point by the army.

“The fort was important geographically, given its location between Malwa and the Deccan. A ‘blind darwaza’ built into the steep hillside would have been a defence mechanism. It didn’t lead anywhere; it opened out to an area where soldiers would be silently waiting for attackers," Gajjar says. Only six arches have survived the test of time, but the spot offers gorgeous views of the valley.

The summit of Pavagadh, 800m above sea level, is an ancient temple that has been visited by Hindu pilgrims since long before the development of Champaner. In Champaner: A Medieval Capital (2005), Gujarat-based archaeologist R.N. Mehta wrote that the Kalika Mata temple was situated at the highest point of Pavagadh Hill and finds exhaustive mention in 15th century literature. “It (Kalika Mata temple) is a well-known Shakti Pith (significant pilgrimage destinations according to the medieval Hindu tradition of Shaktism) in Gujarat," Mehta writes.

Pavagadh also has a few Jain temples that are said to go back to the 14th-15th centuries. A 5km walk, which includes 1,800 steps along a jungle footpath, takes you to the top of the hill; the adventure-challenged can hop into a cable car. The top of the hill offers an unusual aerial perspective of the sprawl of monuments. The golden mosques, monuments, tombs, temples, stepwells and fortifications reveal stories that have been cast in stone and preserved for eternity.

Teja Lele writes on travel and lifestyle.

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