Why the future of fashion is bespoke
Summary
While fashion hurries towards mass production, there's a counter-movement. People are moving towards clothing that's custom-made for them, reflecting their unique personality and choice
Luxury, as we define it, is changing. Previously the domain of a select group, luxury in today's world has transcended mere ownership to profound personalisation. It is no longer about having the costliest; it is about having what is distinctively yours. And nowhere is this more clearly seen than in the emergence of bespoke clothing—a phenomenon not so much of fashion, but of heritage, sustainability, and the quest for uniqueness.
For instance, the Nehru jacket, a fashion item based on India's cultural sophistication, has evolved from a symbol of statesmanship to a global fashion icon. Sported by everyone from The Beatles to heads of state, this tailored yet flowing piece of clothing was the epitome of bespoke tailoring. It was neither fashion from the past nor a fad—it was ageless. The beauty of these works lay not merely in their shape but in the philosophy behind them. It wasn't a luxury but a necessity that customisation was done. Fabric, fit, and purpose were individually catered to, so that the wearer would have a garment that reflected their personality but was also a reference to tradition.
Now, while fashion hurries towards mass production, there's a counter-movement. People disenchanted by fast fashion are moving towards clothing that's custom-made for them. Technology intersecting with skill is driving the revival. Augmented reality, artificial intelligence and computer visualisation software now enable customers to virtually design their wardrobes. Luxury fashion houses are providing platforms where customers can choose fabrics, silhouettes, and even minute elements such as monograms and buttons—all from home. What was a time-consuming, labour-intensive process is now more accessible without losing its very essence of uniqueness.
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Yet, as technology streamlines the process, the essence of bespoke remains profoundly handcrafted. A hand-stitched buttonhole, a lining made from horsehair canvas, or a collar that perfectly sits on the neck—these are aspects impossible to recreate by machines. The future of luxury, thus, is not merely in cyber customisation, but in the harmony of innovation and heritage without the seams.
Another impetus for the popularity of bespoke attire is sustainability. The world is realising the danger of mass manufacturing—tons of unused clothes that end up in landfills, chemical-laden fabrics contaminating water sources, and the ill-practice work that fuels most fast fashion. Hand-crafted clothing is sustainable by its very nature. It is not trend-led to be thrown away in months but by classic craftsmanship. Every garment is made with the intention, to be treasured and not tossed aside. The bespoke trade is naturally conducive to quality over quantity—a philosophy shared by a new generation of consumers who are awake to their actions.
Looking to the future, the very nature of clothing will be governed by an irrefutable fact—the world is becoming more and more air-conditioned. In offices, in houses, in automobiles, in airplanes, controlled environments are making the old idea of seasonal dressing irrelevant. This change will have far-reaching effects on the choice of fabrics. Thick layers and heavy wools could soon be a thing of the past, to be replaced by light but structured materials that are breathable without being informal. Envision a world where linen is not a summer cloth but a year-round staple, where silk and wool blends rule power dressing, and where clothes are made not only for street elegance but for home comfort.
Luxury brands are already responding to this shift. Loro Piana's textile innovations, Zegna's performance wools, and even niche Indian brands experimenting with handwoven bamboo silks are signs of the way custom clothing are going. The future will require clothes that look effortless but are refined—addressing the needs of a world where comfort is not an option.
Ultimately, the appeal of custom clothing is that it tells a story. A finely tailored bandhgala, a well-tailored tuxedo, an embroidery worked kurta—these are not clothes; they are extensions of self.
As style changes, one thing is always true: in a mass-produced world, individuality will always be the most precious commodity. And bespoke garments—intensely personal, meticulously made, and luxuriously so—will always be the benchmark.
Raghavendra Rathore is a Jodhpur-based designer.
