Clickbait takedowns are ruining fashion criticism in India
Summary
Fashion criticism has shifted from thoughtful analysis to viral social media content, and it's a worrying trend at a time when India’s fashion industry is coming of age globally
As our appetite for fashion news and trends has grown, a new generation of fashion critics has emerged on social media, becoming tastemakers for Gen Z and Gen Alpha. The power of fashion commentary is undeniable. It can shape trends, influence opinions and alter perception. Once only the purview of seasoned critics, journalists and other designers, fashion commentary is no longer limited to an exclusive clique. Critics of all ages come from all over the world, their opinions delivered instantly and decisively, even as a show is streamed live.
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“There is a unique space for independent voices, allowing thoughtful critique to evolve beyond just the editorial pages of legacy publications. Today, a micro-creator with a sharp eye can have as much impact as a traditional critic," says Rakshit Singh, a popular fashion critic on social media with 70,000 followers on Instagram. He launched his account in April 2023, having studied luxury brand management and worked with DLF Emporio, and has collaborated with luxury brands like Hermes, Bottega and Tarun Tahiliani.
Figures like Singh are not uncommon on the global landscape of fashion influencers, though in India some of the critics who have gained the most traction are the ones who focus on celebrities and make personal attacks, rather than analyze the clothing, the look, or the design.
“Many commentators are out to provoke an instant response, and resort to toxic comments to generate a reaction," says Harmeet Bajaj, founder of the fashion communication department at National Institute of Fashion Technology and CEO of fashion label Bunka. “The principles of fashion and design are being misunderstood."
At the recently concluded Lakmé Fashion Week, AFEW by Rahul Mishra’s “Silk Route" collection featured bandhani on a bodycon dress worn by actor Janhvi Kapoor.
Rather than focus on the traditional tie-and-dye being adapted to contemporary style, many social media critics turned their attention to trolling the actor.
“Since fashion as a mainstream conversation is still finding its footing, many creators feel the need to rely on trolling to reach a wider audience. It’s not just about what creators put out—it’s also about audiences engaging with their content. Controversy draws more attention than thoughtful critique, and so the cycle continues," says Singh.
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There’s another concern—the impact of such commentary on young and impressionable audiences who consume fashion content daily. Mumbai-based psychotherapist Ashika Mehta, a mother of pre-teens, says that continued exposure to toxic commentary can erode the self-esteem of a whole generation of social media users. “Young individuals begin to associate self-worth with conforming to narrow, often unattainable standards. Their bodies become battlegrounds between societal validation and their true selves, leading to chronic self-doubt, body image issues and anxiety," she says.
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The subjects of trolling can be affected too. “It’s one thing to receive constructive criticism—that’s part of putting yourself out there—but a lot of what circulates online is just trolling disguised as ‘honest opinion’," says Singh. “It’s easy to dismiss it—until it happens to you."
At a time when fashion in India is coming of age, whether through corporate investments or brands establishing their own stores, fashion criticism seems to be floundering. Bajaj observes, “The objective criticism we see is by journalists of an earlier generation or those from academia. They do research, draw analogies and present a perspective that is thought-provoking. They are sensitive to brands and designers and understand context."
Brands that collaborate with toxic creators play a role in perpetuating this practice. Singh adds, “If brands were more intentional about the voices they amplify, the discourse around fashion in India could shift toward something more insightful."
Hanan Besovic, the popular global fashion commentator who posts as @ideservecouture, says, “When I criticize someone, I’m just stating my opinion. I have criticized many designers, but I’m also the first to say it when they do an amazing job. But it feels like people are more eager to jump on the hate train rather than the applause train."
Hate spreads faster on social media because, as Mehta explains, “it activates strong emotions like outrage or superiority, which can temporarily mask feelings of powerlessness, shame or lack of control in one’s life." Similarly, harsh critiques can provide people with a fleeting sense of validation, but the impact, particularly on young women, is troubling. “This commentary reinforces the message that women’s bodies are public property, open to scrutiny and moral judgment," says Mehta.
For parents, the effect of social media on teenagers is a subject of concern. To tackle this, Mansi Zaveri, founder of parenting platform Kidsstoppress, suggests, “Parents need to share a wide perspective and address the issues their children are facing. They could also track who their children are following to help them navigate the difference between reel and real life."
Sujata Assomull is a journalist, author and mindful fashion advocate.
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