Why fashion needs a palette cleanser
Summary
After the extravagant Ambani wedding and with India Couture Week in full swing, perhaps it’s time for a refreshing break from opulenceMy advice on how to dress at present is to keep it simple. After the extravagant Ambani wedding, which continues to fill our social media feed, and the unfolding of the India Couture Week in Delhi (not the best timing, considering people are still getting over the fashion showcase during the months-long grand nuptials), what we need is a fashion palette cleanser. You can make a fashion statement with less as well, and there’s indeed a real charm when it comes to taking a minimal approach to dressing.
“I think people have forgotten that minimalism in dressing is an art form, and it’s a beautiful one at that," says fashion stylist and creative director Divyak D’Souza. He refers to a recent look he styled for actor Kareena Kapoor Khan in an ivory mulmul kurta with gold gota work by Re-Ceremonial, a label by designer Ateev Anand that focuses on using ethically sourced handwoven recycled materials. Kapoor Khan’s look was subdued yet made a statement, and she wore it comfortably from the airport to an event in Delhi. “Instead of peacocking, we need to be thinking about elegance right now," says D’Souza.
Another recent example of keeping it simple and chic is Sonam A. Kapoor’s look at Wimbledon: she wore a Bottega Veneta striped top and skirt with simple black accessories. It was clean and neat, and looked fresh and summery. Amid the sea of wedding wear on Instagram feeds, it stood out.
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The art of keeping it simple
Palette cleansing is a ritual associated with fine dining, providing a refreshing reset between courses to help the diner appreciate each new flavour. The most common palette cleanser is a lemon sorbet, but it could also be a yogurt-based dish like raita, salt crackers, or dark chocolate at a wine tasting.
At the moment, I can’t look at anything other than easy and comfortable clothes as a break from decadence. I am looking for clothes that have a soothing effect on the eyes and the mind.
India is known for its love of craft and colour, but it also has a tradition of displaying that affection with restraint. There are many contemporary designers whose work reflects the minimalistic side of India’s heritage, such as Rajesh Pratap Singh, Abraham and Thakore, Ruchika Sachdev and Amit Hansraj.
There are costume historians who would say it was the Mughals who really took India into maximalism. But there was composition and thought behind their “more is more" aesthetic, evident in the way they matched motifs. There was rhythm even to their clash of colours.
The two prevailing aesthetics in fashion right now, especially when it comes to occasion wear, are an exaggerated take on the maximalism of Indian maharajas and the predictable ode to the uber glamour of Bollywood.
Royalty, however, gave us a mother-daughter duo who will forever be remembered for their effortless take on style: Indira Devi of Cooch Behar (a princely state in India during the British Raj) and her daughter, Gayatri Devi. Known for their delicate French chiffon saris, pearls and gem-studded shoes made by Salvatore Ferragamo, they knew how to get the balance right when it came to marrying traditional fashion with European modernity.
When it comes to occasion dressing, taking a cue from their sense of style could be the perfect fashion cleanser.
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The power of neutrals
Balance is what Edward Lalrempuia, a creative consultant and stylist, believes is the essence of his work. “We forget the power of neutrals", which make for the perfect palette cleansers, Lalrempuia says. They are also the anchors of a wardrobe that you can use to mix and match with the more statement pieces. He observes that when women buy matching skirts and tops, they all tend to wear them together and not experiment by pairing them with different things. “It’s a good idea to challenge yourself and think about the many ways you can wear one piece," he says.
His trick to never looking overdressed is simple: “Have one hero piece, a beautiful jacket, or standout footwear, or an important piece of jewellery and let that shine, while the other pieces you wear around should complement that piece. Have one agenda."
Textile and fashion designer Gaurav Jai Gupta is currently working on his first bridal couture collection while preparing to open a store in south Mumbai. Famed for his molten gold handwoven silk and zari saris, he is using pure zari in this collection. It strikes a balance between being celebratory yet has a clean feeling. “There is a rhythm; yes, there is colour and it’s geometric, but it’s also controlled," Gupta says. He agrees that there has been a sensory overload in the past few weeks, yet points out that festivity is a “beautiful part of Indian culture". That is why, in the weeks before the festive season, simplicity might be the answer and perhaps it’s time to take a cue from Lalrempuia’s styling mantras and pared down one’s dressing.
Even when the festive season starts, remember that elegance is the only beauty that never fades, as the eternal style icon Audrey Hepburn said.
Dress Sense is a monthly column on the clothes we wear every day.
Sujata Assomull is a journalist, author and mindful fashion advocate.
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