Lounge
The intimacy of a solo fashion show
Summary
Instead of participating in fashion weeks, some designers enjoy the thrill of holding a showcase at their own pace
Last month, when a model twirled, wearing a blue bridal lehnga by designer Anita Dongre, at an intimate show to launch her new collection, the gota-patti embroidered dupatta brushed my lap. It was fine, soft silk, almost like mulmul.
The opportunity to touch a garment while it is being showcased on the ramp has become as rare as finding a fashion show without an influencer. The distance between the wearer and watcher, however, didn’t exist at that show, on 19 July, when the 50-odd guests were all in the front row to see Dongre’s new bridal collection at her Delhi flagship store. It was as easy to count the many colours of Pichhwai art handpainted on a sleeveless coat, as it was to admire the intricacy of aari and zardozi work on the saris.
“Historically, ateliers worldwide have always showcased their new collection to their key clientele in this manner," says Dongre, who’s long preferred to sit out of fashion weeks, opting for solo destination shows. This was the first time she had a show at the Delhi store, opened in 2016.
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“In this way, you allow the buyer to touch, feel and experience the intricacies of the craftsmanship. Smaller gatherings allow you to create that intimate connection with clothes. Typically, ramp shows with all the lights and seating distance aren’t conducive to intimacy and engagement with the garments."
Where mega productions like fashion weeks score is, perhaps, from the media attention they attract. For some brands, however, it is more important to engage with the audience.
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Monica Shah, for instance, believes standalone shows work better for Jade, the brand she co-founded with Karishma Swali in 2008. “Fashion shows are about making a congruent statement that reflects the values of a brand," she says. “It helps create a unique narrative for each collection, something that’s best achieved outside the traditional fashion week setting. Our previous show was at CSMVS (Mumbai’s Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Vastu Sangrahalaya)."
Continuing the theme, Jade presented its bridal collection—gowns, saris, lehngas, corsets and jackets—on 8 August at Delhi’s Travancore Palace, a heritage property that has been turned into a cultural complex by the Kerala government. The idea, says Shah, was to “blend heritage with contemporary design. A deeper, intimate, immersive experience lends to creating an appreciation for the craft beyond the ensembles."
Besides intimacy, standalone shows allow designers greater freedom. For Shantnu & Nikhil’s couture show on 9 August, the designers—regulars at fashion weeks—decided to do a 1970s-themed performance art presentation at the Piano Man jazz club in Delhi.
While a live band played a blend of Harlem swing and electro funk, models strutted in wide-legged trousers, short jackets and off-shoulder dresses. “We thought such a show did justice to the collection’s nature and our contemporary take on Shantnu & Nikhil luxe couture," says co-founder and chief executive Shantanu Mehra. “We couldn’t pass up the chance to bring our vision to life in a way that an independent show uniquely allows."
Perhaps the best thing about a solo, intimate show is the access it offers to the garments and the brain behind them. Towards the end of the Dongre show, for example, the designer didn’t come out just to take a bow. Instead, she chatted with her guests, asking their thoughts on the collection.
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