Indian jewellery shines on the global stage
Summary
Contemporary Indian jewellery remains rooted in India’s rich ornamentation traditions while also being collectible objects of artAs the season of sparkle approaches, it’s only fitting that jewellery and its age-old relationship with Diwali come to mind. Beyond mere ornamentation, jewellery in India symbolises wealth, prosperity and good fortune.
Indians have long been patrons of international jewellery houses such as Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels and Boucheron, which were favourites of the maharajas, and, in turn, India has been a rich source of inspiration for these maisons. Cartier drew upon the opulence of Islamic and Mughal India for some of its most coveted collections.
The Tutti Frutti style, now commonly used by jewellers worldwide, originated from Cartier’s multi-coloured gems set as berries, leaves and flowers, which were referred to as “Hindou jewels" back in the 1930s. “Indian design motifs have had a significant global influence, particularly inspiring major French design houses during the 1920s and 1930s," confirms Jay Sagar, jewellery expert at Mumbai-based auction house AstaGuru.
Pieces crafted from India’s finest materials continue to grace the catalogues of prestigious auction houses like Sotheby’s, Christie’s and Bonhams. Arundhati De Seth, bespoke jewellery advisor, consultant and curator, says, “Indians have always had a huge appetite for gold, gem-set and diamond jewellery unlike any other part of the world. I’m glad to see that ‘Made in India’ jewellers are finally shining on the international arena."
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Young jewellery designers such as Delhi’s Hanut Singh and Mumbai-based Atelier Studio Renn take a refreshing approach to their craft.
Jewellery writer and content creator Archana Thani notes, “While Western designers have long established distinct signatures, what sets Indian jewellery apart is its seamless fusion of Eastern and Western elements with their own unique design language. Indian designers blend traditional influences such as intricate craftsmanship, cross-cultural motifs and gemstone expertise with modern forms to create something that feels completely fresh to global audiences."
Indian jewellery is synonymous with detailed craftsmanship, including techniques such as kundan, meenakari, jadau and filigree, which give the jewellery a timeless appeal to people around the world and from different generations. Motifs like the lotus, peacock, sun and moon hold various meanings, from purity to prosperity, giving jewellery an important role in rituals, weddings and rites of passage. Contemporary designers are working with these ideas as well as the importance that Indians place on gold jewellery as a valuable investment to create pieces that become wearable art. They are also drawing from the vast repertoire of regional diversity in jewellery, borrowing styles and techniques from the ornate temple jewellery of the south to the tribal silver ornaments of Gujarat and Rajasthan.
Singh’s jewellery, which has been worn by stars such as Meryl Streep, Dimple Kapadia and Kareena Kapoor Khan, was recently shown at New York’s famed Leighton Jewels. His contemporary pieces, many designed for everyday wear, draw inspiration from his royal heritage. Meanwhile, Studio Renn takes a conceptual approach to jewellery and recently exhibited at PAD London, one of the UK’s most prestigious design fairs.
De Seth says contemporary jewellery collections worth buying include those from Ananya, GYAN, VAK and Santi. “They have been conscientiously and deliberately working their way into the international retail arena, partnering with stores and galleries that represent them. Their communication and storytelling are distinct and aimed at an international audience," she says.
Indian jewellers have used rich ornamentation traditions of the country to create pieces that feel relevant to today’s wearers. As Thani says, “Indian jewellery is deeply intertwined with culture, reflecting layers of social, spiritual, aesthetic and economic significance. This multifaceted approach is what makes Indian jewellery so special—it’s not just about adornment; it’s about meaning, tradition, values and personal expression."
Sagar agrees, saying that Indian jewellery brings together artistry, culture and tradition, making it not only visually stunning but also deeply meaningful. “Its ability to merge beauty with symbolism and its ties to cultural identity are what make it truly special," he says.
Dress Sense is a monthly column on the clothes we wear every day.
Sujata Assomull is a journalist, author and mindful fashion advocate.
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