London Fashion Week: Art, fairytales, and glam gothic energy
Designers reference historical figures and showcase a craft-led approach to design in FW25 collections at London Fashion Week
Even though a lot of big ticket names were missing from the London Fashion Week schedule this season, there was no dearth of creativity. Temperley clocked in its 25th year and the designer's son’s great-great-great-great grandfather Levin August von Bennigsen, who fought Napoleon back in 1807 was on the mood board. The overarching military vibe was peppered with Temperley insignias: shine on and hand-painted medals embellished the jackets, plenty of silk shirts and the house’s signature tattoo numbers. A touch of Napoleon was hard to miss in the jacquard knitwear which was served in hues of blue, red and purple. However, the real showstoppers were the tasselled filigree dresses which came across as chic armours. The designer also offered her own vision of Toile de Jouy enriched with galloping horses, llamas and donkeys from her farm, as well as the Somerset hill near where she grew up. Here are the key trends which emerged:
Art inspired
This was Aartivijay Gupta's second outing at LFW and she collaborated with the inheritors of Kolkata’s storied Kalighat and Patua traditions, transmogrifying folklore into her signature prints. An artistic dialogue at the crossroads of art, culture, and contemporaneity. Caught in the interplay of the joy of creativity and the struggle to keep traditions alive, these artists breathe their very being into their work reflecting art as the ultimate embodiment of people and culture. Vibrant prints drawing inspiration from Indian craft and culture were rendered on luxe textiles with innovative unbroken pattern cutting allowing artwork to be replicated across garments in its most complete form uninterrupted by seams. All in all, a poetic reflection on the essence of India embodied through the creative expression of its people through time in an articulation of “art imitating life". Another noteworthy artistic showcase was SS Daley’s, which was informed by Francis Cadell’s Iona Croft painted in the mid-1920s by one of the most influential members of the Scottish Colourist movement. For Daley, the painterly handwriting of these artists catalysed his rethinking of craftsmanship, fabrics and tailoring.
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Fairytale romanticism
Richard Quinn's showcases are always the biggest talking point of London Fashion Week calendar and this season, the designer presented a jingle jangle of 1950s and ’60s haute couture silhouettes, corseted bells, draped pannier skirts and satin bows. Sequins and prints have been the brand's key mainstays and this time too, the designer offered plenty of shine with his signature sequined embroidery along with his favourite stylised cabbage-roses prints. Harris Reed's statement-making offerings had subtle references to British punk, drag icons, and Victorian ladies.16Arlington looked at the exuberant 80s reimagining power dressing by crafting ensembles in lurex, sequins, contrasting hues, buttery leather.
Glam Gothic energy
Simone Rocha's collection opened with a black biker jacket with zipper detailings followed by a noir leather dress. Fur accents, shaggy coats and furry slashed skirts were peppered throughout the line-up along with coquette core ribbon like detailing. The designer delightfully mixed toughness with romance, strength with delicacy. Turkish-English designer Dilara Findikoglu showcased at a warehouse in London with a fantasy fuelled outing consisting of gothic glamazon wrapped in corsets, breastplates crafted out of pearls and shells besides chiffon bodystockings. Nominated for an LVMH prize, designer Sinéad O'Dwyer made a case for body positivity. The opening look was a chic black shine-on patent leather cape. 16Arlington 80's vampy noir looks were offset with logo belts and gravity defying groovy pumps. Sheathed in bulbous wrap coats and puffball skirts, models finished off their ensembles with kohl rimmed eyes and bold red pouts.
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