Lounge
The hidden message in the Rahul Mishra x Tod’s collection
Summary
The two fashion houses join hands for a limited edition collection of bags and shoes
Quiet luxury was supposed to reign supreme. Return to over-the-top fashion would take time, many claimed. Well, it seems maximalism is back, especially in designer collaborations. Just over a week after the drop of colourful prints-heavy H&M x Anamika Kwhanna collection, another line of limited-edition pieces is here, to celebrate muchness steeped in luxury: Rahul Mishra x Tod’s.
Part of Tod’s T-Factory project, a series of one-offs with creative innovators, the collaboration marks Indian couturier Rahul Mishra’s first international outing in the accessories space.
The collection, which includes shoes and bags (prices on request), became available online and in physical stores across the world from 13 September.
A point to note is that in 2022, Reliance Brands Ltd (RBL), the retail arm of the multinational conglomerate Reliance Industries, signed a multi-year franchise agreement to retail Tod’s, an Italian luxury lifestyle brand, in India. The same year, Mishra entered into a partnership with RBL for a ready-to-wear brand in a 60:40 joint venture.
On paper, Rahul Mishra x Tod’s is a beautiful marriage. Tod’s clean, minimalist Italian aesthetic means a big blank canvas for Rahul Mishra to embellish the brand’s signature nature-inspired hand-embroidered motifs.
Also read: What H&M x Anamika Khanna collection says about Indian design
In practice, it was a “big learning process. That line we use in garments for hand-embroidered work that ‘no two pieces are the same’ can’t be used here," says Mishra. “Leather needs to be visible, each motif needs to stand out (since it’s a smaller surface) and be the exact same, more so in shoes."
The motifs do look striking. So much so that the two golden parrots sitting on a tree branch on a Di bag (the iconic shoulder bag named after the late Princess Diana) look printed from afar. Once you hold the 200cm calf-leather bag with a golden sheen, the aari, zardozi and sequin work—classic Rahul Mishra—become evident.
Also read: The jewellery in ‘Emily in Paris’ tells an India story
A similar treatment has been given by 100-odd karigars to other products in the collection. Whether it’s a bright, colourful Mughal garden on a black mini crossbody or a string of golden flowers on a black Gommino, each piece in the collection showcases the talent of India’s artisans and the Italian artisanal tradition. But does this union of made-in-Italy and embroidered-in-India work?
When it comes to fashion collaborations, a golden rule is a good mix of familiarity and balance—and this collection delivers on those fronts. Tod’s and Rahul Mishra play with their iconic products and signature motifs to ensure brand recall value while practising control with maximalism.
The collection seems geared towards the festive/wedding/holiday season, given the timing, nature of embroidery and choice of colours (black, light brown, deep maroon). In case you want to get more out of your purchase, there’s only one black velvet crossbody that can possibly be carried outside a formal cocktail party or a wedding, to a brunch or a date.
Perhaps the biggest takeaway from this collection lies in Tod’s general manager Carlo Alberto Beretta reply when I asked why they chose to collaborate with Mishra. Tod’s iconic accessories are being “hand-embroidered by skilled kaarigars who interpret timeless luxury with a contemporary language," said Beretta.
The modern Indian aesthetic is becoming a global aesthetic.
Also read: Why fashion designers are turning into home decorators
