Are elaborate scalp care routines actually good for hair growth?
The market is flooded with new, trendy products that claim to increase hair density. Lounge asked experts if multi-step scalp routines are worth the effort
Scrubs, tonics, rejuvenators, gummies—the haircare market, which was earlier limited to anti-dandruff solutions, is now flooded with newer products that claim to offer all-round scalp balance and health. Some social media content creators, too, have moved on from sharing AM-PM skin routines to telling their followers about the 10-step “scalp routine" they swear by.
While the awareness for scalp health is good, it's making people a little too concerned about the scalp, believe experts.
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“Many women today visit a specialist or worry about being bald due to visible hair fall. But most of the time, it is normal shedding that is harmless," says Jisha Pillai, dermatologist, Lilavati Hospital, Mumbai, who's seen a spike at her clinic as well. She adds that people are constantly monitoring hair density around the hair parting area and overtly worrying over not having the kind of hair they have seen on a Reel. "Reels, beauty influencers, trends add extra pressure. This fear (of not having ‘healthy’ hair) is causing a rise in the use of hair-related products and treatments even when not needed. People don't even seek the expert's advice."
What's also fuelling their use is the easy availability of scalp-related products and advanced in-clinic treatments like platelet-rich plasma (a procedure that involves injecting concentrated platelets from a patient's own blood into the scalp to stimulate hair growth).
People blindly try a product or a treatment without knowing the cause of their hair loss, says Dr Stuti Khare Shukla, dermatologist and founder of Elements of Aesthetics, which has clinics across India.
They fail to understand that the hair thinning might originate from a combination of genetic inheritance, stress and unhealthy diet, and hormonal irregularities, she adds. “One needs a whole-body solution while basing methods in medical science to understand hair loss. For realistic results, a complete evaluation to determine actual hair thinning for a personalised solution is necessary."
Know your hair type
Knowing your hair type will help choose the right products and right treatment.
“Fine or thin hair is a common characteristic for some people, and it can sometimes be mistaken for thinning hair, especially due to weather, stress, or styling habits. Fine hair often appears delicate, weightless, and less resilient, particularly under certain lighting or after using certain products. Without a proper understanding of your hair type, it’s easy to misinterpret what’s really happening with your hair," says Dr Shukla.
It’s normal to lose 50 to 100 strands daily. If you are losing hair in clumps or seeing visible bald spots on the head and sudden thinning around the crown, temple and hairline, then it's important to consult an expert. “Long-term hair fall that doesn’t stop should never be ignored," says Dr Pillai.
There are many reasons hair fall, including stress, significant changes in diet, and scalp itching, redness, or inflammation that could indicate underlying conditions such as alopecia areata or scalp infections. Hormonal imbalances, vitamin and mineral deficiencies, viral or flu infections and medical treatments, too, can cause hair loss.
Overuse of shampoos, conditioners, styling treatments can also strip the hair of its natural oils, or product buildup, leading to weak, brittle strands. So if you see an irritated scalp, dry, rough hair that tends to break, it may be a sign that you're using too many products or exposing the hair to too much heat or chemical treatments.
Good hair habits
A hair routine that works for your best friend might not work for you, as you have different hair and scalp types. But there are common good hair habits that benefit all. These include following a healthy and protein-rich diet that naturally provides essential vitamins and minerals; washing your hair gently twice a week (or as your scalp and lifestyle dictates); and massaging your scalp with oil gently with fingertips. Try managing stress and get quality sleep as well. Most importantly, avoid too much sun exposure, frequent chemical treatments, tight hairstyles and heat styling.
“A good approach is to simplify your hair care routine. This less is more approach allows your hair to regain strength, shine and vitality over time," says Dr Shukla.
Dhara Vora Sabhnani is a Mumbai-based writer.
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