The new wave of Indian swimwear

Last year, the Tata Group-owned clothing and lifestyle retailer Westside debuted swimwear under its Wunderlove line. Independent homegrown labels are also finding takers. “Customers are more confident of buying Indian swimwear—in terms of style options and quality—and not just from international brands," says Shivangini Parihar, founder and creative director of clothing label The Summer House, which has retailed swimsuits since 2017.

Diverse brands, premium designs and affordability are filling what was once a wide gap between sporty and designer swimwear. What’s behind the surge?

“The spirit of India has changed," says Umashan Naidoo, head, customer and beauty at Trent Ltd, which operates Westside. Naidoo situates the swimsuit in a cultural landscape of heightened connectivity, smartphone access and new aspirations. “There’s shyness about swimwear, but also curiosity," he says. “Consumers realise that when they are going on holiday, they don’t want to be wet in a T-shirt and leggings. They need swimwear because there’s a level of ease," he says.

Indian consumers conventionally seek swimwear for vacations, which have surged in the post-covid years. According to the Reserve Bank of India, Indians spent an average of ₹12,500 crore every month on foreign travel in FY 2023-24. Naidoo also highlights the popularity of weekend getaways and staycations, which fuels the demand.

Contemporary retail experiences, including the open-plan layouts of stores and women sales personnel in the lingerie and swimwear sections, also make a difference. Earlier, swimsuits for style and leisure found so little retail space in India that vacations abroad offered better opportunities.

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Kochi-based filmmaker Anoodha Kunnath bought her first swimsuits in Oman a decade ago. “I did look at swimwear brands in India, but the nice-looking ones in my size cost ₹4,000 and above," she says. “It seemed unnecessarily indulgent for something I don’t wear that often." Kunnath opted for Marks & Spencer, Decathlon, and fast fashion labels earlier; now, homegrown labels like The Summer House and Coco Palm are on her radar.

Saoni Daini, founder of fashion label Sazo, says vacationers dominate her swimwear clientele. Sazo swimsuits feature colourful, kooky digital prints, an aesthetic that earned the brand a SpongeBob collaboration this June.

The demand for new designs encourages swimwear makers experimenting with neon hues and animal prints, colour blocking, cutouts, and vintage styles. One-piece suits are fail-safe, but Naidoo notes that bikinis do sell and Daini makes a case for high-waisted bottoms. Modest designs such as swim skirts and dresses are elevated with sleek tailoring. Women also seek products such as wraps and covers that can be used to take their swimwear from beach to bar, from pool to family lunch. Prices have also become more competitive. Swimwear at Dweep costs between ₹6,999-14,999; labels such as The Summer House and Sazo price their designs at under ₹7,000. Westside scores better on the affordability scale, with a one-piece swimsuit costing ₹2,199.

The most important chapter in swimwear’s growth story may well be women’s evolving body image. “We see (women with) larger sizes in swimwear also opting for sexier options, which wasn’t the norm earlier," says Parihar. Naidoo adds, “The massive shift is in the Indian woman’s mind, that ‘my body is cool, curves and all. There’s no need to hide it’."

Despite their revealing nature, or because of it, swimwear can feel empowering. “I never thought I could wear a swimsuit," says Tanisha Singha, 25, a Goa-based mixologist and bar consultant. “But wearing it gave me a lot of confidence." Since wearing her first swimsuit in 2021, Singha now has a side gig as swimwear model collaborating with brands like Goya Swim Co. and Luam.

Kunnath, 38, compares swimwear to activewear’s stylish makeover. “It feels really nice to work out in clothes I have put together with thought," she says. “The same applies to swimwear. I feel less conscious of my body and it is a lot of fun."

Not just self-perception, women also have to navigate other people’s opinions of their bodies. “Many women may like to wear swimsuits, but don’t because of what others will say, it’s still seen as shameful," says Singha, who has faced such comments. Being in the public eye is no better, though celebrity and influencer swimwear images abound online. When Chhillar posts photos wearing Dweep bikinis, admonishments, objectification and trolling fill the comments. “There are always people who write demeaning things, but such comments need to be ignored," she says. “Swimwear is the appropriate clothing for a water body, and the point is to enjoy it."

Indians have more access to swimwear, but much of the segment remains tucked within resortwear and athleisure. Few homegrown brands are entirely swim-focused. Vivek Agarwal, the US-based Indian founder of swimwear label OOKIOH, observes that India is still a nascent market. “People are launching swimwear as passion projects, but it will be a long-term game for brands that want to stay put." Social media hype does not imply real-time volumes and sales.

To realise the business potential, swimwear makers must refine both branding and design. Agarwal highlights quality control as a major goal. “There is much room to improve the quality, construction, and sizing fronts. And, most brands lack a clear and well-defined design and brand language—there is no voice or desire to say anything specific aesthetically." Singha echoes similar concerns from a consumer’s perspective. “It’s hard for full-breasted women like myself to find the right fit," she says. “Photoshoots are fine, but the garments slip in the water."

Daini also draws attention to the pitfalls of experimental silhouettes. “Swimwear with cut-outs and backless details look beautiful, but don’t offer enough support for all body types," she says.

Price consciousness also poses obstacles. In conversations for this feature, multiple consumers chose a price point of ₹3,000 or under for swimwear. According to Agarwal, only big brands have the economies of scale to afford such prices; for small businesses, offering well-constructed, beautiful designs incur higher costs.

“Swimwear isn’t yet a core wardrobe essential in India," Aggarwal says. “Perhaps in four-five years, as they have more use for it, people will be willing to pay."

Sohini Dey is a Delhi-based writer and editor.

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