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4 iconic wristwatches and their affordable alternatives
Summary
The world of wristwatches contains some iconic models that can cost the moon. Here are four of the best, along with their low-cost alternativesWhen it comes to wristwatches, there are some classic styles that never go out of fashion. To a large extent these styles have much to do with the stated purpose of the watch. For example, if it is a watch that can be worn in the sea while snorkelling or diving, then it’s a dive watch. And since a dive watch is a tool, it has to look a certain way.
Such an approach to watch design extends to other styles as well, be it dress watches, or field watches, or chronographs, or watches featuring multiple complications. Over a century on from the advent of wristwatches, each of these styles are represented by certain iconic models (‘references’ in watch-speak) from famous brands. Be it a matter of design or of function, these references perfectly encapsulate the style of watch it is, a platonic ideal that all other watches follow.
The specific watch references are highly desirable and collectible, and also extremely expensive. There is a reason they are called “Grail watches" after all. Now, every watch nerd may want to own a Grail watch, but very few of us will actually ever be able to afford one. But fret not! Given the size and diversity of the watch industry, we can get the same buzz from far more affordable watches as well, some of which are equally iconic.
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With the holiday season upon us, you may be in the market for a new timepiece, either for yourself, or as a gift. So, I thought it would be a fun idea to talk about three of the most iconic watches in their respective categories, and three affordable alternatives that will keep your heart and wallet both happy. As I said earlier, many of the affordable ones are nearly as iconic and important as their more expensive brethren, so you won’t be losing out on value.
I won’t be listing copy-cat watches here, rather watches with heritage and heft that are freaking cool to own and wear. And though most of these watches feature mechanical movements, I won’t be biased against quartz watches either. As a sweetener, I will mention a couple of honourable mentions for each of the three categories. Enough said, now let’s dive in!
The Diver
(Expensive) Rolex Submariner 124060: The most famous watch ever made is also one of the most rugged watches ever made. Although you wouldn’t think so because of the Submariner’s luxury-item status—with an eye-watering price tag to match—this is the quintessential watch for people doing cool things, like deep sea diving. First introduced in 1953, the Submariner is a design behemoth: from the counterclockwise rotating timing bezel to the big, geometric lume-filled hour markers to the 300m of water resistance.
Even though you are more likely to find the modern Sub on the wrist of a tech CEO than a professional diver, it is still a highly capable tool. And given its pop cultural importance—a favourite of Sean Connery, Robert Redford and John Mayer—as well as it's historical provenance as the watch of choice for military frogmen and scientific field researchers in inhospitable places, the Submariner remains a cool watch to own. It could very well be the only watch you’d ever buy.
₹7,99,500; available at all Rolex Authorized Dealers.
(Affordable) Seiko Turtle SPB317: The Japanese manufacture Seiko is one of the few brands in the world that can go toe-to-toe with Rolex when it comes to dive watch pedigree. From its very first diver in 1965 to the present day, Seiko has been the watchmaker of choice for all kinds of people working in tough professions, be they saturation divers, Vietnam War soldiers or scientists in Antarctica. And while Seiko has dozens of lines of dive watches to choose from, the one modern diver that you should consider is the Turtle SPB317.
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This 41mm diver is a re-interpretation of one of the earliest Seiko divers, the ref. 6105-8000 from 1968. Just like the Submariner, it too boasts of a rich history of use in forbidding environments in the ocean and on land. On top of that it looks very cool and classic, with its all-brushed stainless steel case that is water resistant to 200m, a fully graduated bezel, and an extremely legible all black dial. The SPB317, dubbed the Slim Turtle by fans is the perfect everyday modern diver that doesn’t break the bank while delivering a ton of value.
₹85,000; available at seikowatches.co.in.
Honourable Mention: Doxa SUB300T
The Everyday Watch
(Expensive) Rolex Explorer 124270: While you could say that dive watches are perfect for everyday wear, they can be too bulky and toolish to go with every situation. An everyday watch should ideally be of a smaller size, legible, sporty and yet look completely at home even at a formal occasion. With this criteria, everyday watches don’t come any better than the legendary Rolex Explorer.
The Explorer has been the quintessential outdoorsy sports watch since its introduction in 1953, its clean black dial design, 36mm case, robust 100m of water resistance and the inimitable 3,6,9 hour markers a classic of utilitarian-yet-classic design. Although designed for mountaineers and adventurers who spend a large amount of time doing similar fun stuff, the Explorer’s classic looks help it work just as well in formal settings. And while there are many amazing field/everyday watches out there, the Explorer remains the benchmark against which others are measured.
₹6,29,500; available at all Rolex Authorized Dealers.
(Affordable) Seiko Alpinist SPB155: You may be wondering why this is turning out to be a Rolex vs. Seiko shootout, but this shouldn’t be surprising. Both manufactures, in their own ways, have shaped watch history like no other brands. More importantly, just like the Explorer, Seiko too has a watch that was purpose-built for mountaineers and adventurers, which went on to become an evergreen classic for all occasions: the Alpinist.
Ever since the first Seiko Alpinist debuted in 1959, the watches have been part of many international expeditions and has also been an enthusiast favourite. Modern Seiko has a large variety of designs falling under the Alpinist line—including the fan favourite double-crown one with a rotating inner compass bezel—the one we’re looking at today is the green-dial 38mm ‘Baby Alpinist’, the SPB155. The green fumé dial is a looker, and the alternating roman numerals at 2,4,6 and 8, along with the cathedral handset and the 200m of water resistance endow it with enough toughness and pizzaz to be a true all-rounder.
₹62,000; available at swisstimehouse.com.
Honourable Mention: Tissot Gentleman Powermatic 80 Silicium
The Chronograph
(Expensive) TAG Heuer Carrera Glassbox: When it comes to chronographs, little can beat the visual punch of the three-register dial, especially the Panda dial: black sub-registersagainst a white dial. But there is something cooler than a Panda—the reverse-Panda dial. Nothing screams “badass" as loudly as a trio of white or cream sub-registers against a black dial. And in world of fantastic chronographs, few do the reverse-Panda as well as the Carerra Glassbox from TAG Heuer.
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Heuer has been a chronograph powerhouse since 1963, when the Swiss manufacture first produced the Carrera chronograph. A racing chrono, like its famous contemporaries the Omega Speedmaster and the Rolex Daytona, Heuer was also one of three manufactures to produce automatic chronographs in 1969. The latest generation of the Carrera Glassbox, which was released last year, takes its inspiration from the brand’s 1960s heyday to create the perfect vintage throwback. At 39mm it is just the perfect size, and the black dial version is a complete stunner, especially with its no-bezel design. If you love chronographs, this should be on your radar.
₹6,42,600; available at tagheurindia.com.
(Affordable) Q Timex Chronograph: Who says you have to break the bank to enjoy a neo-vintage design reverse-Panda chronograph? Certainly not when you have the Q Timex chrono. I’ve written about the watch in the past and just how much I love it (so much that I bought one), and it really is a fantastic looker. The outsized Q at 12’o’clock may be too on the nose for some, but I think it balances the design perfectly.
It is a quartz chronograph, so, yes, the chrono pushers do not have that satisfyingly tactile ‘click’ while engaging them, unlike on a mechanical chronograph. The other downside is that due to its movement architecture, the third register is just a 24-hour indicator that really doesn’t add anything to the watch’s utility. However, what makes up for this is the Q’s excellent design, a wearable 40mm case size and a very good bracelet. And yes, it looks brilliant!
₹14,995; available at shop.timexindia.com.
Honourable Mention: Longines Spirit Chronograph
The Grand Complication
(Expensive) Patek Philippe 5270: Mechanical watches are essentially an obsolete concept, especially if you view it in the context of our phones doing everything that a watch can do, and be more accurate about it. But everything in life shouldn’t just be about utility. There should be something left to romance, and that is where the concept of the ‘grand complication’ wristwatch comes in. Take the Patek Philippe ref. 5270, the prestigious manufacture’s flagship model. It is a perpetual calendar, telling the time, day, date, month and even leap years. It is also a chronograph as well as possessing a moonphase and a day/night indicator.
The handwound movement is made up of 456 individual parts and is beautifully hand-finished by artisans in Geneva. The case material is yellow gold with applied gold hour markers. You absolutely don’t need it, but if you have the money for it, what a wonderful thing it would be to possess! The 5270, in all its different variations represents the absolute pinnacle of high horology.
Price on request; visit patekphilippe.com for more details.
(Affordable) Longines Master Collection Calendar Chronograph: It is impossible to get a watch as complicated as this at the price at its price. The Longines ref. L2.673.4.78.3 may well be an outlier in this regard, considering that it offers a chronograph, a moonphase indicator, and an annual calendar on top of telling the time.
Longines is a Swiss manufacture with an illustrious history of producing pilot’s watches and chronographs, and its modern collection contains some incredible models at unbelievable prices. Take this one for instance. With a movement based on a legendary Valjoux movement, it is also highly wearable with a case size of just 40mm. If you want to look like a million bucks for a pittance, you could do much worse.
₹3,42,000; available at ethoswatches.com.
Handwound is a column on watches and watchmaking.
