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Why Cartier and Jaeger-LeCoultre rule the world of rectangular watches
Summary
You may think that the standard wristwatch always has a round face. But as the legendary Cartier Tank and Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso prove, that's not always the case
When we think of wristwatches, we tend to think of circle. A watch is round, and thus shall it always be. Right? Wrong. While a majority of watches are indeed round, square and rectangular shapes are hardly novel. After all, the most popular smartwatch out there—the Apple Watch—is a rectangle.
However, an unconventional shape like this only works if the watch is thoughtfully designed, as Patek Philippe recently found out to it’s detriment, when it released the poorly-received Cubitus, the heir to the watchmaker’s legendary Nautilus. In a way, the outrage around the Cubitus reinforces the point that watch shapes that are a square or a rectangle—when designed well—can be winners.
And when it comes to maisons that have made their name with watches of this kind, the ones that rule are Cartier and Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC). In fact, Cartier’s history as a watchmaker hinges on this shape. After all, the first ever wristwatch wasn’t round in shape, but rectangular, and it was Cartier that made it.
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The Cartier Santos holds the distinction of being one of the earliest purpose-built wristwatches. Created in 1904 for Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, this watch addressed the impracticality of pocket watches for pilots. The Santos’ square case broke away from the typical round forms, and its unique square bezel gave it a distinctive look that has since become iconic.
In 1911, Cartier made the Santos available to the public. Its enduring appeal lies in its Art Deco influences and its symbolic link to early aviation—a testament to Cartier’s ability to fuse practicality with luxury. To this day, the Santos remains a sports watch.
The next Cartier triumph came in 1917, when Louis Cartier the Tank, inspired by the robust-but-streamlined form of the Renault FT-17 military tank. This watch, with its rectangular case and integrated brancards, has since become a byword for minimalist elegance. Its design drew from the tank’s side treads, reflected in the extended lugs that seamlessly blend into the strap, establishing the Tank as a geometric marvel. Its simple, elegant lines have made it a staple among cultural icons, from Andy Warhol to Jackie Kennedy, cementing its status as a timeless design.
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The Tank has since evolved into various iterations, each offering unique aesthetic tweaks while preserving the original design’s DNA. Notable among these is the Tank Louis Cartier, which softened the angles of the original design, enhancing its dress-watch appeal and making it a favourite among fashion-forward men and women alike. The introduction of models such as the Tank Cintrée and the Tank Américaine offered more variety in terms of size and curvature, ensuring that the Tank could adapt to changing tastes while remaining fundamentally true to its roots.
The Reverso, introduced in 1931, was JLC’s answer to a very specific functional challenge: British polo players in India needed a watch that could withstand the impacts of their sport. In response, JLC developed a reversible case that allowed the watch face to flip over, protecting the dial from damage. This ingenious mechanism gave rise to one of the first “sports" watches, though the Reverso has since transcended its utilitarian beginnings to become a beloved icon of Art Deco design, and very firmly a dress watch.
The Reverso’s rectangular case, adorned with distinctive gadroons on its top and bottom, reflects the bold designs of era. Its timeless, elegant form has attracted a loyal following, and JLC has continuously innovated within the Reverso line, introducing models with complications like dual time zones, moon phases, and even the intricate Gyrotourbillon. The Reverso’s back, originally meant to be a blank slate for polo mallet strikes, has also become a canvas for customization, allowing owners to engrave monograms or personal motifs on their watches.
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Both Cartier and JLC have cultivated a unique approach to square and rectangular watch design that sets them apart from other luxury brands. Where Cartier’s Tank and Santos reflect the brand’s artful interpretation of geometric form and innovative functionality, the Reverso epitomizes JLC’s mastery in mechanical engineering and elegance.
This aesthetic has, in turn, allowed for variations within each model line. The Santos and Tank offer numerous design variations—ranging from dressy to sporty, small to oversized—without losing their essence. Similarly, the Reverso’s design has accommodated everything from simple time-only dials to intricate complications, all the while maintaining its signature look.
There are, of course, other watchmakers who have followed in their footsteps, and many of them actually offer something fresh. The Dolce Vita from Longines and the Oris Rectangular immediately comes to mind, and they cost a lot less than anything from Cartier or JLC. And there are other rectangular classics as well, like the legendary TAG Heuer Monaco chronograph. And some maisons, like Bell &Ross, have made the rectangular shape into their signature aesthetic flourish. The thing is, a well-designed rectangular watch really shines on the wrist, and can look effortlessly elegant. Proportion is the key here, a distinct lack of which led to the backlash against the Cubitus.
